Horse Business – Marketing Tips for Selling a Horse

Horse for Sale, How to Buy a Horse or Sell the One You Have by Cherry Hill

If you have been trying to sell a horse, you know that horse marketing is a very competitive business.  Marketing is a business plan.  Advertising is just one part of it.  Marketing includes:

* knowing what you have
* knowing how to present it
* identifying the market niche
* checking out the competition (prices, products, techniques, successes)
* showing what you have to offer that is different or better
* a more thoroughly trained horse
* lessons with the sale
* lower price
* installment contract
* first month’s board free
* setting goals and reasonable expectations regarding the horse’s price, the amount of time it will take you to sell him, and the type of owner (home) the horse will go to.

Excerpt from  Horse for Sale
©  1998 Cherry Hill
www.horsekeeping.com

Usually there are a good number of horses for sale for every prospective buyer.  There is always a large supply of partially trained, out-of-shape, “backyard” horses for sale.  It is much more difficult to sell a horse that has not been worked for some time, is overweight, either very lazy or a little bit wild, and not professionally cared for or presented.  It is easier to sell a horse at the beginning of a riding season (spring or early summer) than at the beginning of the feeding season (fall or winter).

Not many potential buyers will take a seller’s word, “He’s a wonderful pleasure horse (but he hasn’t been ridden for five years)” and buy a horse without being able to test him thoroughly.

If you hope to sell your horse, you must get him in shape, highlight his positive attributes, and direct your sales efforts to the specific market for which he is suitable.  Don’t hope to sell a horse by saying he is a hunt seat prospect if he has never been in the show ring, let alone never had hunt seat training.

Early in your sales efforts you must decide whether you will market your horse locally or nationally, at private treaty or auction, how you will advertise and where, and what price you will ask for your horse.

Remember, unless you are selling a very specific age, type, color or blood-line, there are many other contenders in the marketplace.  What makes a horse sell?  Quality, training, presentation, performance, appropriate price, and paperwork in order.

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Horse Management – How to Tell a Horse’s Age

Hello.  A family relative is trying to do some research and has gotten stumped.  One of her questions is to explain 4 ways to tell a horses age.  I was hoping maybe you could help her out.  We know that teeth is a definite, but unsure about the other 3.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you for your time! Carrie

Hi Carrie,

Examining the teeth to age a horse is the main method used.

You can read all about that and other horse development and aging facts in the horse time line in my book How to Think Like a Horse.

How to Think Like a Horse by Cherry Hill

There is also an excellent web article Determining the Age of Horses by Their Teeth by Wayne Loch and Melvin Bradley
Department of Animal Sciences, University of Missouri-Columbia

Now as far as other methods which is what you are really after, here are some ideas, some of which are fairly obvious but I feel I must mention.

If the horse is registered, look at the registration papers or contact the breed or association registry to ask for that information.

If the horse is branded, determine who owns the brand and contact them.

If you think the horse might have a micro chip implanted in its neck, ask your veterinarian to scan the horse’s neck with a reader to gain information.

As far as visual methods to ascertain a horse’s age, that comes with experience but even knowledgeable horse people can be fooled. There are certain factors that show a horse is getting older such as sunken areas over the eyes, gray hair, lost of muscle tone and so on. But, for example, not all 25 year old horses will show these signs and not all horses that show these signs are 25 and older if you get my meaning.

If you do come up with other methods to tell a horse’s age, I’d appreciate hearing them because for now, today, this is about all I came up with !

Cherry Hill

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Back in the Saddle – 6- Improving Attitude & Confidence

Improving Attitude and Confidence

©  2010 Cherry Hill © Copyright Information

Whether you’re returning to riding after time off or first learning to ride, get in shape before you get in the saddle. This will minimize injury and maximize enjoyment. When you evaluated your rider readiness in last month’s newsletter, perhaps you found a few areas that could use improvement. Here you’ll find exercises and tips specifically tailored for riders to help with those trouble spots.

STAGES OF RIDER DEVELOPMENT

1 – Evaluate, then make a plan.
2 – Focus on attitude, confidence and enough muscular strength to ride for about one hour.
3 – Work on flexibility to attain a correct riding position and use the aids effectively.
4 – Increase your endurance for longer or more demanding riding.
5 – Improve your timing for advanced riding skills.

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ATTITUDE

A good attitude is a combination of motivation, optimism, diligence, patience, and honesty. If you think you need an “attitude adjustment”, start by finding or making adequate time to devote to riding. If you approach riding in a hurry, it’s not only harder to have a good attitude but it’s unsafe and often counter-productive.

Associate with happy, positive, successful people, especially during your horse time. You want to avoid folks with unhealthy egos, those that constantly gossip or bellyache, or those involved in illegal or inhumane activities. Learn about visualization, mental imaging, and goal setting and how they can be used to improve your riding.

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CONFIDENCE

Confidence comes from knowledge, training, and experience. It’s no secret that confident body language convinces a horse that you are in charge.Two keys to confidence are:

1. Ride a good horse and

2. Work with a good instructor.

Even before you get to actual riding, spend plenty of time with your horse: grooming, tacking and leading so you become accustomed to each other.

Your Mentor, the Horse

So that you can concentrate on your riding, you need the help of a well-trained, patient, experienced horse. Most good “rehab” or school horses are 8-20 years old geldings but some older mares also exhibit great care and patience. Use a horse with an exemplary temperament, one that is not only patient but willing, cooperative, and alert, yet calm. You want a horse that is physically responsive to the aids and balanced and rhythmic in his gaits. A sensitive, thin-skinned, hot-blooded horse, even though well-trained, might react to accidental bumps of the leg or weight shifts as cues. You are usually better off choosing a duller, more cold-blooded horse that will tolerate the mistakes a rider makes when learning balance and rhythm. Such a horse tends to go on steadily despite awkward rider movements.

Choosing an Instructor

There is no substitute for a good instructor and a poor instructor is worse than none at all. So that you learn correctly and you maintain a good opinion of yourself, your horse, and your work, choose your instructor carefully. An excellent trainer may be good with horses but ill suited to working with people.

Look for an instructor with a keen eye and the ability to give you accurate feedback. You might think of your instructor as an experienced, talking mirror. The best instructor is also an excellent rider, trainer, and observer; someone who knows when things are going well and tells you; someone who sees when things are headed in the wrong direction and can tell you in clear terms how to fix it.

Choose an instructor that is appropriate for your goals and capabilities. Some teachers are excellent with beginning riders but do not have the proficiency to take a rider further. Others do not have the patience to work with any but very advanced riders and horses. An instructor with a famous name may not have the time or interest required to work regularly with a re-entry or novice rider. Look for an instructor nearby so you can take frequent lessons.

Give your instructor’s methods a chance to work. If you are convinced mentally that they will not work, they will not work. Be sure you can hear and understand exactly what your instructor is telling you. Misunderstandings can undermine your self confidence and your trust in your trainer.

Confidence Builder – the Mounting Block

One of the most awkward times in learning to ride is mounting and dismounting. You could teach your horse to sit down for you to mount! But a more practical solution is to use a mounting block. Especially if you are short, stiff, or coming back from an injury, a mounting block puts your foot closer to the stirrup and decreases the distance you have to lift your body weight. Whether you use a milk crate, a bucket or an official mounting block, you will find mounting less stressful to your knees and back. In addition, there will be less scrambling and saddle twisting, which your horse will appreciate. You can mount facing the rear or the front of your horse, whichever works best with your physical limitations. Use a quiet, obedient horse because if he steps sideways just as you are getting on, you could find yourself in a wrenching version of the “splits”!

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Back in the Saddle – 5 – Male and Female Riders

Male and Female Riders

©  2010 Cherry Hill © Copyright Information

The Physiological Differences Between Male and Female Riders

Women are innately more flexible and loose-jointed, allowing them to smoothly follow the movements of a horse, but they can be more easily unseated and be more likely to suffer joint injuries. Women have greater manual skills and dexterity, allowing them to be more talented and subtle with rein aids. The tightness of men’s joints, muscles, and skin may make them less responsive to a horse’s movements but allows them to hold a correct position more easily. Women tend to carry 20% of their bodyweight as fat, which provides greater cushion, insulation, and tolerance for cold. This can make the body difficult to cool in hot weather, may inhibit range of motion, and may undermine level of fitness. A woman’s thermostat is higher – she must be hotter before she sweats to lower her temperature.

Men’s lower fat stores may allow them to become more fit but their lack of padding and insulation may make riding less comfortable for them, especially in cold weather. Men sweat at a lower temperature so cool their bodies sooner.

Women have lighter bones and less durable tendons and ligaments meaning a lighter load for the horse but more injury for the rider, especially knees. Men’s heavier framework makes a heavier load for the speed or endurance horse.

Women are usually about 3 inches shorter and 25 pounds lighter than men so often can ride smaller horses. However, men’s longer legs often fit around a horse’s barrel better than a woman’s do.

Women are bottom-heavy with a low center of balance – between the hip bones. Thickness in this area can make it difficult for the beginning rider to find the correct position but helps the advanced rider keep a stable leg position.

Men are top-heavy with a center of balance located around the waist. The result is movable limbs: leg adjustments come easily but leg stability is difficult to maintain. Top-heaviness plus a high center of gravity can unbalance male riders.

Women are less strong and have a lower muscle-building capacity. Females tend to use psychology rather than strength. A man’s strength can tempt him to overpower a horse. Saddles were originally designed for male riders yet the majority of today’s riders are female. The female pelvis and legs may make some aspects of riding more difficult for women and an inappropriate saddle will exaggerate the tendencies.

Women have a wide pelvis, wide set seat bones and hip sockets that face outward, and a tailbone set out behind the spine. A woman’s legs to tend to be knock-kneed, making it harder to relax the thighs so they hang down along the horse’s side. The thighs often point outward at the knee and come forward and upward when riding. Because the tailbone is behind the lumbar vertebrae, women have a naturally hollow lower back. Young female riders especially, tend to tip forward on the pubic bone, ahead of the center of balance, creating an exaggerated hollow back. It requires proper instruction and effort to bring the seat bones under, tuck the tailbone, and achieve a flat lower back.

Men have a narrow, upright pelvis, nearly parallel seat bones, hip sockets that face forward, a tail bone that is more vertical, and a tendency toward bow-leggedness. This allows the legs of the male rider to conform to the horse’s barrel. The upright pelvis results in a flatter back and a more naturally stable position. The male’s near-parallel seat bones and near-vertical tailbone are perfectly suited for a deep seat. The seat bones are able to rock freely backward and forward in contrast to the muscular effort required for a female rider to do the same. The naturally tucked tail bone of the male rider allows him to sit down more effortlessly on a jogging or loping horse than a female rider who must constantly exert muscular energy to tuck the tail bone and flatten the lower back.

Generalizations related to male and female anatomy vary according to the individual. Evaluation by a qualified instructor regarding pelvic and lower back action is essential to safeguard the health of your spine and improve your riding.

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Back in the Saddle – 4 – Flexibility

FLEXIBILITY

©  2010 Cherry Hill © Copyright Information

Flexibility is the range of motion of a joint.

How Flexible Do You Need to be For Riding?

Flexibility is affected by the bone structure of the joint and the extensibility of the tissue surrounding and connected to it: the ligaments, tendons, muscles, and skin.

Inactivity can cause your muscle and connective tissues to lose their extensibility. A flexible rider conforms to the horse and moves fluidly with the horse. A lack of flexibility can result in improper movement, poor form, and injury. Too much flexibility, however, can also cause injuries such as dislocations and sprains.

TEST: A rider must be especially flexible in the pelvis and hips. Lie on your back with your head and hands on the floor. With one leg stretched out in front of you and keeping your pelvis flat on the floor, bend your other leg at the knee and bring it close to your chest. Have a friend note the angle between your spine and femur (thigh). (When your knee points to the ceiling, your femur is at 90-degrees with your spine). Can you close the angle to 60 degrees? Is one hip more flexible than the other?

TEST: Thigh muscle suppleness allows you to wrap your legs around your horse’s barrel yet use each leg independently to give aids. Sit on the floor with your back straight and legs straight out. Spread your legs making as wide an angle as possible. If your legs won’t open to 90 degrees, you need stretching exercises to limber up for riding.

TEST: While sitting on the floor, bend your knees and bring your soles together. Move your feet as close to your crotch as you can, keeping your knees as close to the floor as possible. If the distance between the bottom of your knee and the floor is more than 9 inches, you need to stretch your inner thighs. Is one of your knees higher than the other?

TEST: The “heels down” position desired in Horsemanship and for security in any fast moving event requires that your “hamstrings”, gastrocnemius muscles, and Achilles tendons (“heel cords”) are stretchable. Sitting on a chair with your legs straight out in front of you, flex your ankle so that your toes reach backward as far as possible toward your shins. If the angle of your sole and the back of your calf is greater than 80 degrees, you need to stretch your calf muscles and tendons.

TEST: For a long western or dressage leg, hamstring and lower back muscles should be loose. Stand with your knees straight and your feet flat on the floor, hip width apart, and bend at your waist to reach for the floor. The tips of your middle fingers should at least touch the floor. Do not bounce – it’s dangerous and results in an inaccurate indication of your flexibility.

TEST: Shoulder flexibility is especially important to ropers, bull doggers, vaulters, and eventers but it is essential to everyone who grooms, saddles and wants to ride with shoulders back. Stand with your arms in front of you, hands 12 inches apart, holding a rope or dishtowel. Bring the rope up over your head and behind you, letting it slide through your hands only enough to let you bring your hands behind your back. If you are 25-45 and can keep your hands closer than 35 inches, you’re looser than average. If you need 45 inches or more, you need shoulder exercises to prevent tendonitis. Extremely loose shoulders are prone to dislocations and need strengthening exercises.

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Back in the Saddle – 1 – Attitude & Confidence

This time of year, many people get back to riding after not being able to due to weather or other commitments. A while back, I was asked to write a magazine series for people returning to riding after time off, illness, an accident, pregnancy or other reason. Following is that series. I hope you might find some information that will help you, a student, or a friend.

©  2010 Cherry Hill © Copyright Information

Part One – Attitude and Confidence

Have you been riding your computer or your truck more than your horse? Has an injury or surgery prevented you from riding? Maybe you’ve had a brutal winter or scorching summer and six months zipped past without a ride. If it’s time for you to get back in the saddle, with a little preparation you can make a smooth re-entry to riding.

After riding most of my life and teaching and judging many riders, I’ve seen that certain attributes can help or hinder a rider. Whether you are getting back to riding or taking it up for the first time, you should evaluate your attitude, confidence, relaxation, balance, flexibility, coordination, durability, strength, and fitness. Next month’s newsletter will contain tips on how to improve areas that need work.

ATTITUDE

A good attitude is made of motivation, optimism, diligence, patience, and honesty.

TEST: Answer Yes or No to these five questions:

1. You get up an hour earlier every morning so you have extra time to ride.
2. You see something ahead that might spook your horse. You alter your course to avoid the confrontation.
3. Your horse moves 3 small steps when you are mounting. You “let it go”.
4. You want to smooth out your horse’s lope but after several weeks you don’t see a change. You start looking for another horse.
5. When your instructor/trainer says, “Work with your horse every day to improve your riding”, you say, “I do!”

Yes to #1 shows motivation.
No to #2 shows a positive attitude that you can overcome your horse’s fears.
No to #3 shows diligence to work on small things to make the whole better.
No to #4 means you don’t give up quickly; training takes time.
Yes to #5 either means you are a rare person that can work with your horse every day OR your definition of “work” includes grooming, petting and feeding treats OR you just say “I do” to your instructor to keep from getting a lecture. To improve, you first must make an honest evaluation.

CONFIDENCE

Confidence comes from knowledge, training, and experience.

TEST: Answer Yes or No to these questions:

1. Have you had your horse handling and riding skills evaluated by a professional instructor?
2. Do you take regular lessons?
3. Do you know safe practices for handling and riding horses?
4. Do you work with a well-trained, experienced horse that can “show you the ropes”?
5. Do you know how to stop a runaway horse?

If you answered YES to these five questions, you have set yourself up to be confident.

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