Posts Tagged ‘confidence’
Posted in Bad Habits, Behavior, Biting, Desensitization, Ground Training, Nipping, Personal Space, Respect, Training, What Every Horse Should Know, tagged attitude, biting, confidence, equine, ground training, horse, horse behavior, spooking, training on January 28, 2012| 2 Comments »
Posted in Catching, Desensitization, Ground Training, Handling, How to Think Like a Horse, What Every Horse Should Know, tagged catching foal, confidence, equine, ground training, horse, restriction, touching foal, training on July 21, 2011| 1 Comment »
Hey Cherry, I have a filly, not sure about her age but we think she is almost a year old, around 10 mnths. Anyways, she has never been properly handled, so she is scared of humans. However, she will come up and sniff me, but if i move even just a finger she jumps back and takes off to the other side of the corral. I have tried just sitting on a stool in the corral with some treats, and when she would come to me i would offer her the treat but she justs runs away again. But, we had gotten another filly at the same time we got her and this other one, Willow, is much more outgoing at will let you scratch her head, so we put the two together hoping that she (autumn) would follow willow’s example, and she has started to not get scared as easily, but we still cant get close to her. I dont know what to do, i ve never had such a shy foal before! PLease help! Miki
If you wait for a fearful foal to approach you, it might never happen. And in the meantime, it reinforces the foal’s fear through repetition. What you need to do is show the foal there is nothing to fear, that a human’s touch can be soothing and pleasurable. Until the foal knows this, it has no reason to approach.
So I like to get such a foal in a safe small enclosure such as a box stall. Then with the help of a capable friend, gradually corner the foal so that one of you can touch the foal and rub it. You want to touch and rub in a place that the foal inherently likes to be touched such as up on the top of the hindquarters, just in front of the tail head, on the neck or withers…….but NOT anywhere on the head, belly or legs to start with. Most foals LOVE to be scratched over the tail head, so that is a great place to start. Once the foal begins to calm down and enjoy the rubbing, gradually back away and “release” the foal. Then approach again. Once you’ve done this a few times, the foal will see there is nothing to fear from you approaching, that something good comes from it.
Repeat this type of approaching and touching several times of day, daily until the foal starts looking to you, turns toward you or starts coming to you.
Although I prefer to handle each foal alone, you could start this whole procedure with the other foal along with her in the stall if you think the other foal would add calmness and not calamity to the situation.
Restriction and the touch of humans are some of the first things every horse should know.
Posted in Behavior, Body Slamming, Books, Buddy Bound, Ground Training, Halter Training, Handling, Herd Bound, How to Think Like a Horse, In-Hand Work, Management, Pasture, Rushing, tagged barn sour, buddy bound, confidence, equine, ground training, herd bound, horse, horsekeeping, training on June 23, 2011| Leave a Comment »
My friend has a 5 year old filly. When he puts her out in the pasture she will stay by the back door unless another horse or even one of the llamas is out. When he tries to walk her out in the pasture she goes in circles and tires him out by pushing on him to get him to go back to the barn. Daryl
Horses are herd animals so seek comfort and security in numbers. This filly lacks confidence so just for safety sake, she would benefit from a companion animal (llama or another horse) when out on pasture.
To build her confidence, your friend could hold her training and riding sessions out in the pasture, building a strong bond with her out there. It sounds like she needs a thorough ground training review if she whirls or pushes when he tries to lead her. There are many articles on this blog (use the search tool in the right hand column) and my website horsekeeping.com related to behavior and ground training.
Posted in Behavior, Catching, Desensitization, Ground Training, Handling, In-Hand Work, Training, tagged calmness, confidence, content, contentment, equine, horse, horse behavior, pecking order, submissiveness, training on March 30, 2011| 1 Comment »
The word submissive can sometimes have an undeserved bad connotation. If we are talking about a bully who is forcing another person into submission and fear, yes, that is a bad thing, a very bad thing.
But when it comes to horses and their interaction with people, submission is not only necessary from a safety standpoint, it is desirable from the horse’s perspective.
Horses feel the most secure, content and untroubled when they have a fair and capable leader. When there are no questions, when roles are clear, when the (human-horse) pecking order is established, a horse is submissive, calm and content.
Once the partnership is established, often, all it takes is the touch of a hand to elicit that calmness.
Enjoy that good horse,
I’ve just started loping recently and when i do i feel like im gonna fall out of the saddle, and it makes me nervous. And sometimes i find it more difficult to steer my horse. Do you have any tips on this? And also what’s the differences between loping, cantering and galloping?
Your nervousness when loping is a common anxiety with new riders. I’ve answered similar questions on this blog.
To search for topics, just type the subject in the search box (there is one at the top of the page and one in the right hand column) and click on Search.
For example, entering loping, you will find the following articles:
Overcoming the Fear of Loping (another rider, another reply)
Here are the difference in the terms you ask about.
The canter and lope are both a three-beat gait with the following foot fall pattern:
1. initiating hind leg or outside hind
2. the diagonal pair or inside hind and outside foreleg
3. leading foreleg or inside foreleg
4. regrouping of legs or a moment of suspension.
If the initiating hind leg is the left, the diagonal pair will consist of the right hind and the left front, the leading foreleg will be the right front and the horse will be on the right lead. When observing a horse on the right lead from the side, his right legs will reach farther forward than his left legs. The right hind will reach under his belly farther than the left hind; the right front will reach out in front of his body farther than the left front. When turning to the right, normally the horse should be on the right lead.
The canter has an alternating rolling and floating feeling to it. The energy rolls from rear to front, then during a moment of suspension, the horse gathers his legs up underneath himself to get organized for the next set of leg movements. The rider seems to glide for a moment until the initiating hind lands and begins the cycle again.
Canter is the term generally used to describe the gait of an English horse.
Lope is the term associated with a Western horse and is a relaxed version of the canter with less rein contact and a lower overall body carriage.
An extended canter or lope (sometime called a “run”) is a canter/lope with a long, strong stride, head and neck reaching forward. The extended canter/run has maximum ground coverage per stride while retaining the tempo of the ordinary canter/lope.
There should be no increase in the rhythm of the hoofbeats from a canter/lope to an extended canter/run – just an increase in reach. There should not be a shift into the gallop.
The gallop occurs when the horse increases tempo AND length of stride so is maximally extended at full speed. It is a 4 beat gait because the diagonal pair work separately.
The term hand gallop is often called for in the hunter show ring. In many cases what is really desired is an extended canter.
Disunited is when a horse is on one lead in front and another behind. Also called cross-leaded. This is very rough to ride.
Counter-cantering is cantering on the “outside” lead on purpose as a means of developing obedience, strength, balance, and suppleness. If counter-cantering on a circle to the right, the horse would be on the left lead and he would be flexed left.
Posted in Back in the Saddle, Bad Habits, Behavior, Ground Training, Riding, Safety, Training, tagged attitude, bucking, confidence, equine, ground training, horse, horseback riding, lessons, training on January 18, 2011| 2 Comments »
I am soon to be 57 and started the horse thing 3 yrs ago due to I had lived in the city all my life.
I now live in the country with only 1 1/2 acer’s and 2 horse’s. I work full time and I am a sissy with the extreme cold or heat.
I need incourgement with training. Whats the least amount of time I need to spend with horse in order to get results and how many months should I look forward to the results. I am looking to get closer to the 2 I have and really get them to trust me so I will feel safer on them. I have round bin now and am looking at some of the Perrelli DVD’s to learn. I just got bucketed off my 10 yr old walker last wk on to my head and she has never done that or kicked at me. But we were near home and she heard the other marer and I think she just wanted to go back–I let her put her head down which I no better but just not enough experence.
What can you tell me that would help me.
First of all, congratulations on your move to the country to make your dream come true of owning a horse !
As far as how much time? Even professional horse trainers will tell you that it takes a lot of time to get a horse to the point where the horse is confident and solid in his desirable responses.
In fact, a common answer to “How long will it take…..??” is often “Take the time it takes.” In other words, you have to measure your horse handling, training and riding by results rather than a clock or a calendar.
Your horse will tell you each day what you need to work on and when it is time to move on to something new. Start with something simple like catching and haltering. If that goes smoothly, then you can move on to some other ground work or tacking up and riding. But if the catching and haltering has some issues such as avoidance, high headedness, being distracted by other horses, invasion of your personal space or other such things, you need to iron those things out first before you move on.
Specifically in regards to your letter, the horse you were riding was exhibiting barn sour, herd bound, or buddy bound behavior. As you know from landing on your head, you need to work on that first and foremost. There are a number of articles on that topic on my Horse Information Roundup.
In addition, my latest book What Every Horse Should Know discusses the importance of developing Respect, Patience, and Partnership and NO FEAR of People, Things, Restriction or Restraint.
Best of luck,
Backing Up a Horse Trailer:
Advice for New Truck and Trailer Drivers
If you have never backed up a trailer, it can be a confusing and non-intuitive maneuver. If you want the trailer to turn left, the rear end of your rig must go right. You often gauge your progress by looking in a side or rear view mirror, which reverses things. So, how do you manage it? By going slow, practicing, using a helpful ground person and/or frequently putting the truck in park, getting out and walking walking around the trailer to see what’s happening. Here’s some tips from Equipping Your Horse Farm that will help make the maneuver second nature:
- Put your hand in the center of the bottom of the steering wheel. If you want the back of the trailer to move to the left, move your hand to the left.
- If you want the back of the trailer to go to the right, move your hand to the right.
- For a sharp turn, turn the steering wheel before you press the accelerator.
- For a gradual turn, turn the steering wheel and press the accelerator at the same time.
- Once the trailer is going in the direction you want, you need to straighten out the truck wheels to have your truck follow the trailer.
© 2010 Cherry Hill